How To Replacing Cone Crusher Liners?
What Are Cone Crusher Liners?
Cone crusher liners are critical wear components in cone crushers, responsible for protecting the crusher and facilitating the material reduction process. They consist of two key parts: the bowl liner (also called the concave) and the mantle (also known as the cone liner). Together, these liners form the crushing chamber, where the material is compressed and crushed.
During operation, the mantle moves eccentrically, pressing the material against the stationary bowl liner. This motion gradually reduces the material size as it passes through the chamber and exits through the discharge opening. The shape and configuration of these liners directly affect the crusher’s efficiency, throughput, and product shape.
Cone crusher liners are typically cast from high manganese steel, which offers excellent wear resistance and work-hardening properties. Common grades include Mn14, Mn18, and Mn22, each offering different levels of durability based on the application.
Cone Crusher Liners Include:
Mantle (Cone Liner) – The moving part that crushes material against the concave.
Concave (Bowl Liner) – The stationary surface that forms the outer section of the crushing chamber.
For more information, click here to explore detailed specs and liner options.
Replacing Cone Crusher Liners: Step-by-Step Guide
Replacing worn cone crusher liners is critical to maintaining equipment performance and minimizing downtime. Follow these steps to safely remove the old liner and install a new one.
1. Remove the Lift Plate
Detach the lift plate to gain access to the lock bolt and spacer ring.
2. Cut Weld Beads
Grind the two weld beads located:
Between the lock bolt and spacer ring
Between the spacer ring and the mantle
Tip: Due to expansion during operation, the lock bolt may be difficult to remove. In that case:
Use a torch to carefully cut the spacer ring between the liner and lock bolt.
Take care not to damage the head — hold the torch at a tangent to the spacer ring.
Cutting a groove around the spacer before final separation can ease removal.
3. Remove the Lock Bolt
Insert the studded lock wrench (included in the tooling kit) into the lock bolt holes.
Secure the wrench using the L30 washer and M30 bolt (also from the tooling kit).
Use a sledgehammer to strike the wrench and release the lock bolt.
4. Clean the Head
Remove any remaining backing material stuck to the head.
Typically, most of it will adhere to the mantle, minimizing cleanup.
5. Prepare and Pour Backing Material
Whenever new liners are installed, you must repour the backing material between:
The mantle and head
The bowl liner and bowl
Qiming Casting’s backing kits contain:
A large and small can of backing compound
A mixing paddle
Simple instructions for on-site mixing and pouring
Important Notes:
The material is non-reusable and must be poured immediately after mixing.
Both parts and backing compound should be at 16°C to 32°C (60°F to 90°F) before use.
6. Inspect and Lubricate Threads
Check lock bolt and head threads for burrs or damage.
Clean and lubricate thoroughly with oil or grease.
7. Lubricate Contact Surfaces
Apply a light oil film to the outside of the head and the inside of the bowl.
This helps prevent sticking during future removal.
8. Install the New Mantle
Before lowering the mantle, brush a 25 mm (1”) wide band of grease on the head seating surface.
Ensure mantle has pouring holes. If not, torch cut two 25 mm x 40 mm (1" x 1.5") slots 180° apart at the top.
Lower the mantle carefully using approved lifting tools.
Position the torch ring on top of the mantle.
Reinstall the lock bolt — ensure it seats properly and bears evenly on the spacer ring.
Alignment Tip:
The gap between the lock bolt and spacer ring must be uniform. If misaligned, adjust the mantle by hammering or raising. The difference should be no more than 1 mm (0.040").
9. Secure the Lock Bolt
Use a sledgehammer to drive the lock bolt down to the center.
Use a feeler gauge around the seat to ensure mantle contact; clearance should be under 0.25 mm (0.010").
If there are small gaps, fill them with clay, caulking, or glazing compound.
10. Heat and Final Tightening
Paint a vertical alignment line on both the lock bolt and spacer ring.
Heat the mantle (head seat area) to approx. 55°C (130°F) with a torch.
Fully tighten the bolt — you should see approx. 25 mm (1") of bolt rotation.
11. Weld Safety Beads
After tightening, weld two 50 mm (2") beads between:
The mobile jaw and the bracer washer
The bracer washer and the lock bolt
⚠️ Warning: Do not weld in a way that interferes with the distributor cone's seating.
12. Pour Final Backing Material
Fill the cavity behind the mantle to just below the head’s top edge using the pouring holes or pre-cut slots.
Use a trough to direct the compound and pour at multiple points for speed.
Once complete, weld 3 mm (1/8") steel plates over the pouring slots to protect against dust and moisture.
13. Reinstall the Head
With all steps complete and the backing fully poured and cured, reinstall the head assembly.
If you have any questions or need assistance regarding cone crusher parts, feel free to contact us at any time.