Introduction to Natural Perfumery

Introduction to Natural Perfumery

The Essence of an Art

Since the remotest ages, perfume has been synonymous with wealth, culture, and refinement. The natural perfumery art and craft were associated with the profession of a physician, a healer, or a priest at holy ceremonies.

Natural Perfumery: delight & healing

The aromatic essences that were made by the ancient perfumers had healing powers and produced psycho-physical well-being. Through olfaction, specific scents can activate biochemical processes in our body that foster one’s own capacity for self-healing. The Arabian, Israelite, and Egyptian parfumeur composed perfumes and went even further with incenses, baths, ointments, balms, and cosmetics.

These remedies provided refined delight and healing, the two natural functions of perfume. To convince oneself of the healing power of aromatic essences, it is sufficient to consult any book on traditional pharmacopeia, a great part of them is of aromatic plants.

In a world brimming with synthetic fragrances, natural perfumery stands out as a timeless art form that captivates the senses and reconnects us with nature’s most precious scents. With roots dating back to ancient civilizations, natural perfumery has evolved into a refined craft that embraces sustainability, artistry, and a deep appreciation for the essence of nature.

Artificial fragrant bombs

Nowadays, humankind uses more aromatic substances than ever before. Nearly all of these aromas are produced artificially, and the range of their use is wider than ever. Every day we handle and ingest these perfumes in commercial products.

The gigantic expansion of perfumery is typical of our century and was made possible by the exponential development of modern chemistry. The original natural olfactory jewels have been substituted by a chemical imitation. Plastic.

“Fragrant bombs” have been devised. Just by their smell, these can knock down a hostile army or population and turn it defenseless with smell-induced sicknesses.

The two natural functions of perfume – delight and healing – have been delegated to its artificial surrogate. Not only have original perfumes been replaced by chemical products, but also, the science to cure diseases with perfumes has been usurped by the science that claims to cure with chemical substances.

Natural perfumery instead, with its rich history, artisanal craftsmanship, and deep connection to nature, remains an enchanting art form that continues to captivate perfume enthusiasts worldwide. Its essence lies in the celebration of botanical treasures and the mastery of perfumers who harmoniously blend fragrant notes, creating olfactory symphonies that resonate with the soul. As we navigate a world of synthetic fragrances, embracing the art of natural perfumery offers a captivating journey into the heart of botanical allure.

Unlike mass-produced synthetic fragrances, natural perfumery thrives on artisanal blending. Perfumers meticulously craft their fragrances in small batches, ensuring attention to detail and maintaining the integrity of the raw materials. Each bottle becomes a unique masterpiece, telling its story through layers of scents that unfurl gracefully upon the skin.

Side effects of chemical perfumes

Although everybody knows the toxic side effects of chemical medicines, very little is known about the effect of chemical perfumes on the central nervous system. This center of our being is directly connected with the external world through olfaction. To fill this gap in our knowledge, modern perfumery, and the chemical industry are largely investing in research & development.

These studies focus especially on androstene molecules (pheromones) and “coercive odors”. Pheromones affect our sexuality, and “coercive odors” can subliminally provoke particular social and individual behavior. This new science, called “aroma-chology“, is certainly not meant for good purposes. It aims at controlling people and raising profits.

Natural perfumes do not contain any toxic chemical compounds such as phthalates, petrochemicals, or parabens often found in synthetic ones. Numerous scientific studies have found that these chemicals are harmful to the human body and environment.

Research also linked toxic chemical compounds found in industrially mass-produced perfumes to a wide range of health conditions, including hormonal imbalances, cancer, neurological issues, autism spectrum disorders, fertility problems, and various psychological and emotional disorders especially related to anxiety and depression. 

Natural Perfumery and Aromatherapy 

However, technological developments have also been fruitful for the parfumeur‘s craft, as they permitted the birth of aromatherapy. Aromatherapy pioneers took value from the two worlds of traditional medicine and modern technical inventions. These pioneers opened new roads arising from the meeting of the Orient and the Occident. Aromatherapy uses new and pure natural aromatic substances (essential and absolute oils). These essential and absolute oils contribute to all fields of aromatic medicine, including “Scent-therapy“.

Perfume-therapy 

“Perfume-therapy” is the most subtle and enthralling side of present and past aromatic medicine. It continues the tradition of the ancient perfumer-physician, who was able to orchestrate a peculiar fragrance reflecting and supporting the patient’s frame of mind. These are true scents of the soul!

Scents of the soul 

The following links about “The Scents of the Soul” describe the organoleptic features of some of the most successful perfumes of “La Via del Profumo”.

Most were created for a friend, a customer, or a patient, with the essences of their choice. This is the case of Night Blossom and Sea Wood. Sometimes, the idea started with a composition from their favorite feminine essences. African Night and Holy Water were carefully composed to dedicate an aroma to their unique names. Bambini (Children) was meant to be the olfactory signature of a kid’s shop. Tcharas aims at reproducing the scent of a particular resin. Tartar Leather is a DJ perfume, it is a mixture of Hector and African Night.

As for Arabia, while I was desperately searching for a lost perfume, I improvised Arabia for myself in one of the most remote places on earth. The mythical animal musk of Hindu Kush might be the very fragrance exhaling from the bodies of the prophets.

One of the most loved perfumes among the range of perfumes is Muschio di Quercia (Oak Moss). It originated from the necessity to dilute in other essences the green resin of the vegetal musk, which is exceedingly sticky and staining on the skin. Since then this first composition has aroused a decennial fidelity and is as successful today as ever.

 

Beyond their captivating aromas, natural fragrances evoke powerful emotions and memories. Certain scents can transport us to cherished moments, evoke nostalgia, or even provide therapeutic benefits. The close connection between natural perfumery and our emotions makes these fragrances deeply personal and meaningful.

Because of the very nature of the materials that they are made of, natural perfumes are olfactory jewels.
Enjoy these jewels…

SEE ALSO:

The natural perfumery trend (part one)

The natural perfumery trend (part two)

The natural perfumery trend (part three)

FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions on natural perfumes

Natural perfumes

Understanding pheromones

Luca Turin on Natural Perfumery

See the perfumer’s organ

 

What are fragrances and perfumes?

A fragrance is defined as a combination of organic compounds that produces a distinct smell or odour.

A perfume is a liquid mixture used to emit a pleasant odour. It is formed from fragrant essential oils derived from plants and spices or synthetic aromatic compounds.

Cosmetic fragrances applied to a person’s body to emit a pleasant smell include perfume, cologne, and aftershave [1].

Fragrances and perfumes

Perfume store

Perfume shelf

Glass perfume bottle

What are the different types of perfume?

Perfumes are classified into 5 main groups loosely based on their concentration of aromatic compounds.

Parfum or extrait has a 20–30% concentration of fragrance.

• As parfum contains a high concentration of fragrance, it is typically the most expensive.
• It is usually a heavier, oilier product than the other types of perfume, and tends to be used more sparingly.
• The smell is long-lasting — an average of 8 hours and up to 24 hours.

Eau de parfum or parfum de toilet has a 15–20% concentration of fragrance.

• Eau de parfum contains a greater concentration of alcohol and water and is generally cheaper than parfum.
• It is a lighter product and has a shorter duration of around 4 to 5 hours.
• Eau de parfum is the most common fragrance type and is the base for other fragrance types.

Eau de toilette has a 5–15% concentration of fragrance.

• Eau de toilette has a low concentration of essential oils and a high concentration of alcohol.
• It dissipates quickly and lasts 2 to 3 hours.
• It is a cheaper option and often used for daywear.

Eau de cologne has a 2–4% concentration of fragrance.

• Eau de cologne has a much lower fragrance concentration to create a very light

  formulation

  .
• It is primarily used in fragrances designed for males as an aftershave or splash-on fragrance.
• It dissipates quickly and lasts about 2 hours.
• Cologne, by definition, refers to ‘eau de cologne’. However, the term ‘cologne’ is in common use in the English language to denote any fragrance worn by a male [2].

Eau fraiche has a 1–3% concentration of fragrance.

• Eau fraiche has the lowest fragrance concentration of all types of parfum, and is diluted with water rather than alcohol or oil.
• Common uses for eau fraiche include mists, splashes, and veils that are very light and dissipate within an hour [2].

Fragrances are also added to many cosmetics and household goods.

Cosmetics listing fragrance ingredients

 

How is perfume manufactured?

The perfume manufacturing process for natural essences involves collection, extraction, blending and ageing of the product [3].

Collection

• In the collection stage, initial ingredients are obtained from various plant substances and the fatty extracts of animal products [4].

Extraction

• Distillation is the most commonly used method to extract perfume. In steam or dry distillation, the material is heated to high temperatures and condensed into gas to release the desired essential oils, which are then cooled and liquefied. Water distillation is more effective for some more delicate materials, in which plant material is placed into boiling water.
• In solvent extraction, the material is added to a solvent, which forms a waxy aromatic compound that is then mixed with alcohol to release the essential oils. This method is becoming less commonly used as it is costly and time-consuming.
• Expression means the material is compressed and the oils are mechanically squeezed out. This method is primarily used for fresh fruit rinds and thermally labile components.
• In

  maceration

  , the material is soaked in

  carrier

  oils serving as solvents, which capture heavier, larger plant

  molecules

  . This method is useful for materials which require a higher yield of essential oils.
• In enfleurage, the material is drawn out into a fat or oil base and then extracted with alcohol. Enfleurage is no longer used commercially [3,4].

Blending

• Oils are blended according to a particular formula using multiple different ingredients.
• The scent is mixed with alcohol; the volume of alcohol used depends on the intended type of perfume [4].

Ageing

• It takes months to years after the scent has been blended to achieve the desired scent. This ageing period allows the ongoing blending of the selected chemicals to modify the scent [4].

Other perfumes are synthetically manufactured in laboratories. While the need to obtain natural ingredients is avoided, achieving the desired scent can be more challenging [3].

What are the ingredients and chemical structures of perfume?

Perfumes are composed of three structural parts — the head, middle, and base notes — to provide the first impression, body, and lasting impression of the fragrance respectively after the application of a perfume. The presence of one note may alter the perception of another.

The head note, or top note, provides the initial scent that forms the first impression of the perfume. It has the following features:

• It is comprised of small light molecules that have a strong fresh scent but evaporate quickly, usually 5–30 minutes after application.
• Common top notes include citrus (lemon, orange), light fruits (berries), and herbs (sage, lavender) [3,5].

The middle note, or heart note, masks any unpleasant initial impression of the base note and provides the main body of the scent.

• It is comprised of more complex molecules than top notes and has a more mellow, rounded, and balancing scent.
• It first appears 20–60 minutes after application, and usually lasts 2–4 hours.
• Tones are made from more potent florals and spices. Common middle notes include lemongrass, rose, geranium, jasmine, nutmeg, lavender, cinnamon, and coriander [3,5].

The base note adds to the middle note to boost and deepen the existing body of the scent and provide its lasting impression.

• It is comprised of large heavy molecules to provide a rich and smooth nature to the scent.
• It is typically not perceived until 30 minutes after application or during the dry-down period. Some can last over 24 hours after application.
• Common base notes include cedarwood, sandalwood, vanilla, amber, patchouli, oakmoss, and musk [3,5].

Why is perfume used?

Perfume is used to give a pleasant and desirable scent to a person’s body, typically with the aim of increasing self-appeal and self-confidence.

Scents are reported to enhance health and well-being by improving mood, reducing anxiety and stress, increasing cognitive function, and improving sleep [6].

A link has also been identified between pleasant scents and improved pain tolerance through the activation of opioid pathways.

What are the adverse effects of perfume?

Adverse effects of perfume primarily involve irritant and allergic reactions.

The use of perfume directly exposes skin to various chemicals, which are then absorbed. The chemical substances in some fragrances can cause contact allergic dermatitis in sensitised individuals. Studies have reported that one-third of the general population experience at least one adverse health effect from fragranced products [7].

Common adverse effects may include:

Irritant contact dermatitis is due to repeated or excessive exposure to irritating chemicals in the fragrance, usually over a significant period of time. It presents as localised erythema at the site of exposure, dry cracked skin, and blisters and erosions in severe cases.

Allergic contact dermatitis is a delayed hypersensitivity reaction and may occur after just one, or more frequently, many exposures. Symptoms are similar to irritant contact dermatitis, but tiny quantities may be sufficient to cause allergy. It may also result in dermatitis in sites that were not directly exposed to the fragrance.

Allergic contact dermatitis is confirmed by patch testing. 

Cosmetic products do not legally require allergen labelling, unlike foods [1].

Contact allergic dermatitis to fragrance

Contact allergy to fragrance in aftershave

Positive patch test to fragrance

What is the difference between perfumes marketed to males and females?

‘Pour homme’ and ‘pour femme’ are French terms used to denote perfumes intended for males and females respectively. 

The difference is based on contemporary cultural and marketing trends. Perfumes that emit oriental, woody, and musky scents are typically marketed as masculine perfumes, whereas fruity and floral scents are typically more feminine.

What do the terms ‘fragrance-free’ and ‘unscented'

mean

?

Fragrance-free products do not use fragrance materials for the specific purpose of imparting scent; however, they may contain fragrance ingredients intended for therapeutic uses such as to relieve muscle aches or help with sleep.

Unscented products contain chemicals that neutralise or mask the odours of other ingredients.

Fragrance-free claims